Lie Sangbong unveiled his "Oriental Ink" collection at New York Fashion Week's Lincoln Center with his signature artistry. The man, indeed, is an artist and continues to present pieces that radiate this pleasure of creation.
After 12 years as a Paris Fashion Week staple, Mr. Lie has now chosen New York Fashion Week to grace with his architectural and carefully crafted collection, and you know what? We're flattered...figuratively and literally speaking now with his addition of masterful tailoring.
The F/W15 collection consisted of graceful, moving statuesque garments that were anything but stiff. They draped. They tucked. They sashay-ed. They were not only aesthetically elegant but actually practical for the everyday woman who may or may not be heading to a red carpet or magical party where everyone dons (and looks fabulous in) a sheer mini-dress and army helmet. Lie Sangbong's woman is chic and cool in any environment. No need for tactics here.
The looks struck a balance between minimalism and extravagance. It nodded to retro in terms of silhouette: think wide-led ankle pants, midi skirts, thigh-high pointy boots, and bell-coats, but the details kept the looks unique and refreshingly current. Outerwear was pleated, layered, and often reversible or with detachable accessories, providing function once again for its wearer. Fur trims and gloves, embroidery, cinched waists, and printed details gave this polished ladylike line an edge. Boring? Never. "I think women are looking toward minimalism and simplicity, but with playful, veiled contrasts to add uniqueness and individuality," said Mr. Lie. This statement sums up Lie Sangbong's work, and he delivered upon these words.
Mr. Lie teamed with Korean artist Sun K. Kwak to create an abstract installation that ran across the backdrop and down the entire runway, hence the title of the newest collection, "Oriental Ink." This further played with and off of Mr. Lie''s abstract floral print that appeared throughout the show within the lining of a coat, the trim, or the print of a dress.
Navy, camel, and various shades of burgundy reigned but was also accented by striking looks of red, black, and white. Softer looks transitioned into sharper looks smoothly, offering a well-rounded collection.
With his new storefront at 30 Gansevoort here in New York City, come August, you'll practically need a reservation. He may not be telepathic, but Mr. Lie hears what women want and brings that straight to our closets....or, at least to the Meatpacking District. Close enough.